![]() ![]() I had a Metra one and it worked on my non amplified system but was a bit buggy at times and hated cold weather.Ĩ-Channel Interactive Signal Processor w/ Integrated iDatalink Maestro Module | Rockford Fosgate Īnother option is to replace the factory radio completely with something like a Scoshe ITCFD05B dashkit with touchscreen and wire integration to mount an aftermarket double din headunit. Pictures below show programming changes.Ī 3rd option is some sort of factory integration dsp thing that connects to the head unit and creates clean rca channels. The rear speaker channels have a highpass so the front channels must be used.Īnother option is to change the programming of the headunit to make it operate in a stand alone mode as if the stereo was the base option with no external amp, this requires a laptop and a program called Forscan along with a suitable odb connector, since your car is a 2019 the listed code changes may not work. The amplifier is located on the driver side behind the kick panel. The signal coming from the back of the head unit is at a constant level regardless of volume setting, the volume changes are sent through the Canbus to the amplifier so you need to tap a speaker line after the amplifier. Ive used LOCs to feed RCA inputs on the amp. Ive tried another working sub with the same result. ![]() Getting a speaker signal is a bit tricky especially since you have the amplified 9 speaker system. Ive installed Alpine MRV-F450 5 channel amp to my stock head unit over the weekend and there is no sound coming out of the sub. I need to wire signal from the head unit to the LC7 but I am scared as to were to pull all the speaker signals from as i dont want to cause issues with things like driver select mode on the car as i think these things are integrated into the factory amp like my RS was is there anyone on here that has totally upgraded there amps and speakers that can give me an in depth link or advise on how to go about this or is there a plug n play unit that will help in getting the signal to my LC7 specific to the 2019's I really want to upgrade as the stock system is so lifeless thanks in advance and I hope I'm not asking the same question as some already has I couldnt find anythingĬlick to expand.The 12v line to the trunk camera is less than ideal because it only activates while the car is running so you wont have the radio persist after the car shuts off like it normally does.įuse 23 located in the passenger side footwell behind the kick panel will provide a proper switched 12v source that operates normally. Now my dilemma the factory systems are so complex and had the same issue with trying to figure out my RS. My real question is I have the factory system with Nav and 9 speakers I but I have 2 kaption amps a 4 channel 400 watt amp to run all my Kaption speakers and a 600 watt Kaption mono block amp to run my sundown audio 8" sub in the trunk and a Lc7 to help with organizing all the speaker running a new power wire and ground is simple I just read somewhere that our 12v acc can be taken from the back up camera in the trunk. For ref it cost me approx $400 for the parts I needed to do the install, although I did rewire all speakers and used good quality interconnects.Hi all new here but not new to the mustang or modding I just picked up a 2019 EcoBoost premium in Kona blue so far I changed the rear valance and put on the factory quad exhaust from the GT as it takes it from 2.5 to 2.75" and is perfect for what I plan on doing I have installed the cpe exhale kit with the HKS bov and have a few more things to get intake, intercooler, catless DP and tuner still on the fence About which tuner sct or cobb. Install is quite involved, but not too difficult if you're handy with wiring/soldering/schematics/etc. There is a big improvement in sound quality and I have voice control, nav, backup camera, steering wheel control, etc. * I also added an under-seat 10" sub in custom enclosure which is normally connected to the system - I only use the 8" in OEM enclosure if I need under-seat space.There are plenty of threads on here covering different builds. Your proposed integrated unit achieves the amp/subwoofer part of it, and it may be fine (I don't know the unit) but I personally wouldn't want that integration (others may though). There may not be anything wrong with keeping the old head-unit, but you'd have to use speaker-level outputs and I'm not sure how clean (neutral, full range) they are on that unit. You can have no DSP, an integrated DSP (in amp) or a separate DSP. Or a 2+1 channel amp for fronts and sub, or a 4+1 channel for front/rear and subs. The advantage of changing the head unit is you get latest tech/nav, 7" display and a good source with RCA outs.įrom there you have a lot of options - drive the speakers with the head unit and mono amp for the sub. The best thing about the 5 inch unit is it is (relatively) simple to replace and you retain steering wheel controls and voice control. My recommendation would be to replace the head unit, add an amp, change the front door speakers and tweeters and sub. ![]()
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